Truck Repair Questions And Answer List
2000 Chevy 1500
124000 miles
Have noise when backing up
Makes a clunk noise and stops and clunk noise again
Just repeats while backing up
Checked brakes - ok
Pulled wheels - ok
Took rear end apart - ok
Still clunk noise
Don't notice it going forward
Any ideas ?
I have a 97 Chevrolet 1500 with 4.3 vortec rwd truck.
My trucks spiders aren't getting any gas running through them but it is getting up to them, When I push the valve gas shoots out.
Stuff I've done:
Tried 3 sending units.
Tried switching the spiders.
Fuel filter is good.
Tried another computer module.
Poured gas into the throttle body and it starts for a couple seconds then it shuts off again.
Found out the problem is the gas isn't shooting out of the spiders but its getting up to it.
Anyone know what could be stopping them from going through to the spiders?
I have a 1989 Chevy S10 Pick up truck with the 2.5L Iron duke engine. It has 1 fuel injector that sets on top of the throttle body. This past winter I had a problem with getting the truck started and the problem continued when winter was over. it was starting as long as i sprayed starting fluid into the throttle body but i had to do it all the time now that don't even work. I have replaced all kinds of parts on this truck. It has a new o2 sensor, coolant temperature sensor, Air Charge Temperature Sensor, Throttle position sensor, Air temperature sensor, Idle air control valve, EGR Valve, EGR vacuum solenoid, Manifold absolute pressure sensor, Fuel pump and sending unit, Fuel injector, Fuel pressure regulator, Engine control computer, Starter, Distributor, ignition coil, spark plugs and wires, and a new battery.
Right now it will start if I spray starting fluid into the throttle body but the fuel injector is not functioning. That is when I replaced the fuel pump and sending unit, it didn’t work so I replaced the fuel injector, it didn’t work so I replaced the fuel pressure regulator, it didn’t work, so I replaced the engine control computer, it didn’t work. Any suggestions! It does have fuel pressure.
I have a '01 Ford F-150 and it had been overheating so I replaced the thermostat didn't help so I replaced the radiator cause it seem to be clog, replaced it and added 50/50 coolant and burped the lines and no leaks, and has been running fine in town speeds around 55mph, had to go out town and as soon as i got on the interstate about ten minutes later it overheated, I have checked the heads and there fine and idles fine. I have done and checked everything that I can think of!!
My F150 Lightning will suddenly misfire and run rough as if someone has put a potato in the tailpipe, while I am driving. I can start it in morning to go to work, and within 5 minutes, it will happen, other times, I can drive for 5 hours or sometimes several days before it will happen again. Sometimes it will last for a few seconds, sometimes for a few minutes. When it happens the Check Engine light will sometimes flash, but not stay on. My Innova 3030 F code reader picked up P0004, P0304 and P0181 dtc codes, which are in sequence - Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit High, #4 misfire and Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance. I've taken it to the dealer, who ran diagnostics and found nothing. They've driven it and experienced it as well. Finally showed a misfire for them at #4, but related to an injector code. Swapped #4 injector with #1, problem cleared up. On my drive home after picking it up, no less than a 1/4 mile from the dealer, it happened again for about 20 seconds. Took back the next day, diagnostics showed nothing. They ran a history check on the computer, and it showed a misfire of #5 and #7. Dealer thinking it may be ECM. Did nothing yet, left it with them for several days, couldn't get it to duplicate or happen again. Been driving for 4 days now, truck running good with a very slight occasional misfire hiccup, which seems to be getting worse. That's how the original problem started about 3-4 months ago. I've run my code reader diagnostic again with no results. Any ideas?
By the way, I don't drive the truck hard, as it is my daily driver, and I don't want to break it.
I have a 1991 Chevy K1500 5.7l TBI. The truck starts and runs fine when cold, but the warmer the engine gets the more power I lose. It never dies but will only idle around 500 RPM's. Where should I start the troubleshooting process? Thanks for any help you all can give me.
Hi
I was wondering if you could suggest how to diagnose a recent problem. I have a 93 chevy truck C1500 350 V8 with 4l60e 4stage auto 2wd. just got home from 150 mile trip (warm eng) and noticed when I stopped to park I could hear a dull light knocking from what sounds like the rear bottom end of engine. It is only there when the engine is in gear when I put into neutral it goes away. Started eng cold this morning no knock unless I put into gear D or Rv cant hear while driving only when idling in D eg when stopped at lights.engine has had oil change and service 3000 mls ago and have had no problems before this noise started.I have checked trans fluid hot in park levels to spec clean and no odour. No fault codes,and revs perfect with no knocks rattles or ticks. issue only apparent as described. Do I start to think bigend ,crank bearing (Ive heard that before) or could it be in the transmission I have recently thought I could hear a high pitch noise similar to a heater fan spinning coming from the fire wall area? Hoping you may shed some light on what to look for so I can determine if Im up for an eng rebuild or transmission. Truck has done 196k mls but dont know history of eng ie rebuild etc.No smoking or clicks from top end no oil leaks was running like a charm well serviced and looked after truck. would appreciate if you could suggest any process to determine cause
Many Thx
PK
backing my 2003 f150 out of a parking space I heard a snap now the steering wheel turns but the wheels don't move. what could the problem be?
I have a 98 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer edition. My ABS light came on. I have a "winding" noise as soon as I begin to drive. There I ed a grinding noise coming from the rear and when I press down on the brakes the peddle goes all the way to the floor and I have to pump the brakes to stop the car.
I HAVE A 97 SILVERADO WITH 5.0 V8. IS THERE A THREADED PLUG THAT I CAN REMOVE TO INSTALL A BLOCK HEATER INSTEAD OF USING THE FREEZE PLUG TYPE OF HEATER?
1990 Dodge dakota. Front passenger side tire. It makes a loud clunking when in motion, either forward or backward. Sometimes it will lock up and the only way to get moving again is to change direction of motion. (1st gear to R or vice versa) I was told it was a cv axle, but then told that it is rear wheel drive and my truck does not have a cv axle. ?????? What is it and what do I replace? Am I in danger of losing a tire, or control of my vehicle while driving?
Hello, I have a 1996 Nissan Pickup XE RWD 2.4L and the engine light code P1447 reads EVAP control system purge flow monitoring -- and the auto parts store guy showed me a $122 part called a "Canister Purge Valve Solenoid" but couldn't show me where it is and no one I asked thus far can tell me either and I'm not sure if this expensive part will even fix it as I have been told there are many parts involved in the emission system. Please tell me where this part can be found on my truck? Thank you very much sir!!! :)
have a chevy S10 wasn't getting spark coming out of distributor but was at the coil bought a used distributor and now truck fires but wont start what else could it be
I have a 90 model Chevy 350 automatic that just started making a tapping sound only when under a load but not while at idle can I get some suggestions please I do oil changes before its time.thanks.