99 Suburban - Knocking and loss of power

Automotive questions for anything about engines.
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Erick
Posts:2
Joined:Sat Mar 29, 2014 2:31 pm
1999 Chevy Tahoe 5.7 tapping or knocking noise

Post by Erick » Sat Mar 29, 2014 2:41 pm

I 've got a 99 tahoe I bent the valve in the number 1 cylinder with a screwdriver when bumping the key to find tdc. I pulled the head nd found a crack so that's where my rough idle was coming from. But I put a good head and new lifters I'm and now I've got a tapping/knocking noise coming from under the intake in the front . Any idea of what it could be?

Erick
Posts:2
Joined:Sat Mar 29, 2014 2:31 pm

Re: 1999 Chevy Tahoe 5.7 tapping or knocking noise

Post by Erick » Sat Mar 29, 2014 2:46 pm

I could really use some help I have been messing with this for 3 nd a half weeks

chase
Posts:1
Joined:Tue May 27, 2014 3:35 pm

Chevy Suburban Starter Broken

Post by chase » Tue May 27, 2014 3:52 pm

Hi all, I am new. I am trying to find out what I am missing. Need to sell this vehicle for college money, and the starter has broken.

93 chevy suburban, 1500 4x4. 350motor

1. starter was clicking fast on ignition turn
2. removed starter and replaced solenoid
3. retested starter with jumper cables, solenoid pops out ring gear and starter spins gear just fine
4. reinstalled starter. two wires, two mounting bolts(these are the ground)
5. reconnect battery, vehicle has full electric power, but no click no nothing from starter when ignition fully turned. Made sure again wires on starter were connected correctly. main wire (5/8") ok, smaller solenoid wire (11/32") ok also

one thing i did not replace was the solenoid housing gasket, which upon install of the new one I noticed was split in one spot. I doubt this is an issue but figured it was worth mentioning. I mean, the starter worked properly when tested with jumper cables WITH the defunct gasket so. I also stripped the lower section of the 11/32" connection thread on the solenoid during reinstall at night, but jerry rigged it by just adding a 2nd nut(the old original) and it tightened down fairly well.

Everything worked fine prior to removing the starter, the starter just wasnt kicking the ring gear out
After reinstall, of a tested starter that was working fine, its like there is no power getting to the starter.

Any suggestions greatly appreciated, thanks

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Terry
Posts:110
Joined:Sun Jan 05, 2014 9:05 pm

Re: Chevy Suburban Starter Broken

Post by Terry » Mon Jun 02, 2014 2:54 pm

Yes, check all your fuses. Sounds like you blew one during the removal or install. Dont look for a starter fuse, just check them all.

Next., with the key in the "Crank" position, check for power at the purple solenoid wire with a test light light. If it has power, then there is an internal problem in the starter. If no power, then you have a wiring problem or a bad neutral safety switch.

Terrence
Posts:1
Joined:Fri Jun 06, 2014 6:48 am

99 Suburban - Knocking and loss of power

Post by Terrence » Fri Jun 06, 2014 7:00 am

My 99 Suburban had a bad heater hose connector - did not overhead bad (maybe 240 for a brief period, minutes) - I replaced the fitting and it ran well for a couple hundred miles - then it starting knocking (from block) - I used Seafoam (oil and gas) - then it got real bad and loud also losing power - drove for maybe 20 miles, never stalled, no temp issue - but oil pressure gauge was jumping up and down, idle and low speed it would be real low and as I accelerated it went back up. - check engine light comes on at idle and goes off as I accellerate.I have not changed oil since I used the Seafoam (maybe 60 miles) - 160k, rebuilt trans. - same engine - no other issues - thoughts? I have basic mechanical skills and knowledge and I would like to diagnois prior to taking to shop, if possible.

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Terry
Posts:110
Joined:Sun Jan 05, 2014 9:05 pm

Re: 99 Suburban - Knocking and loss of power

Post by Terry » Thu Jun 19, 2014 8:51 pm

It does not sound like the overheating has anything to do with your engine problem. It does sound like you have an internal issue. Low oil pressure at idle is usually caused by a bad oil pump or a worn out bearing. Try to listen to decide if the noise is on the bottom or top of the engine. If from the bottom, i would suspect a main or rod bearing failure. If from the top, then i would say the noise is caused by low oil pressure from a bad pump.

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